Creating a 1920's Style Velvet Evening Coat
Well, because you asked, here is a blog post about the Blue Velvet Coat I wore to Miss Fisher Con. In this photo shoot (Thanks Mom!) I paired the jacket with a true vintage 1920’s silk lace and chiffon dress, along with some rhinestone / crystal accessories and coordinating shoes and bag.I think it all works together quite nicely.
When making this dress, I really wanted a long attached neck scarf like Phryne Fisher (Miss Fisher’s Murder Mysteries) wears on many of her coats. As I was cutting out this silk velvet, I really had to squeeze every inch of what I had. So, that meant that I had to piece the scarf. It left a seam on one side in the front that I really didn’t like and the naps were different. This was a dilemma at a late hour. Luckily, I had two beaded appliques that worked perfectly. You may remember them from my Creating a Miss Fisher stye Hat post. I bought 3 of them, and glad I did.
I’m really pleased with how the side gusset turned out. At first, it seemed a little small, but after inserting them in the side, they give the coat, just enough swing. Also, there was not enough fabric to make them any bigger, so I certainly can’t complain.
I lined the coat with a silvery silk charmeuse. It feels absolutely divine. This is probably one of my most luxurious creations in a very long time.
I’m going to give you some details below about the entire outfit. Scroll down even further for more information about the pattern adaptation/drafting I did, to create this coat.
Patterns Used - Both from Vintage Pattern Girl on Etsy - 1929 Ladies Straight-Line Coat - Reproduction Sewing Pattern #Z2545 & 1934 Ladies Dress With Coat - Reproduction Sewing Pattern #T1418
Fabric - French Silk Velvet Remnant from Britex Fabrics in San Francisco
Hair Feather - my stash
Art Deco Style Hair ornament - Trims on wheels - I threaded the feathers through the back and added a hair clip.
Earrings - To Herb with Love Alameda
Necklace - True Vintage Crystal and Pewter(?) from my mom
Dress - True Vintage from The Alameda Point Antiques Fair
Undergarments - Me Made 1920’s Corset - Adapted from the Reconstructing History 1920’s Corset Pattern
Stockings - What Katie Did
Shoes - Decobelles and Angels by Laurie Gordon
Pattern Making
I used the 1920’s Straight Coat Pattern to start and adjusted the front neckline by blending a curve from the shoulder seam to the front edge.
2. To make the gusset pattern, I marked similar lines at front and back coat, creating basically, two halves of the gusset piece.
3. I then traced off both sides, butting them together at the center.
4. Slash lines were added.
5. Slash lines were cut and fullness was added. I don’t remember exactly how much fullness was added, but it isn’t super flared.
Next, I changed the sleeve. The Straight Coat pattern was a standard set in sleeve. I wanted a bit of flare to the sleeve opening and remembered that the sleeve to my 1934 Ladies Dress With Coat - Reproduction Sewing Pattern #T1418 might be just the ticket. The only difference, was that that sleeve was a raglan. After comparing the measurements, I realized that they would work together fairly well. I placed one on top of the other and re-drew the sleeve. Alternatively, I could have slashed and spread the Straight Coat Sleeve, but time was limited. In the end, it worked out just fine.
The coat sewed up very easily after basting all the velvet pieces together first, by hand. It was a low pile velvet so it wasn’t the hardest to work with. I’m so luck to have found this gorgeous piece of fabric from Britex. It is One-Of-A-Kind!
Until next time, Happy Sewing!
Jennifer
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