The Sewing Room

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Sewing a 1930's Fall Ensemble - Silk Blouse & Wool Trousers

It’s Fall here (finally) in Northern California and the trees are starting to turn. And by Fall I mean it’s gotten hot in the days (upper 70’s F) and cools off at night. Not quite jacket weather, in the daylight, but it feels good to dip into the fall colors.

This whole ensemble was created around this 1930’s hat. It’s very Robin Hood(y) and the peaked shaped seems to work well on my head and with my hair. That feather is pretty fun too!

I’ve been wanting to try out a new pattern - this 1930’s blouse, and had just enough silk to squeeze it out. The front bow is in a (almost) matching blue crepe. Didn’t have quite enough for the bow and was very relieved to find such a good match in my stash.

Some people’s eyes roll back in their head when thinking of working with Silks and especially the shiny stuff like this Silk Charmeuse. I find it much easier to work with than it’s synthetic counterpart and it’s luster is much prettier. For this blouse, I employed the following techniques and finishes:

  • After measuring the pattern and comparing to my body measurements, I shortened the length 1” and added a little fullness to the circumference at the side seams, before cutting out the pattern.

  • Clean finished edges on the side seams before joining - I pressed the edges back 1/8” and stitched them down, then sewed the side seams together.

  • Hand sewn baby hem on the sleeve openings - the curve on the sleeve was too extreme in one section and I knew if I machine hemmed it, it wouldn’t look so good. so I pressed it back 3/16” and then pressed again, finishing with a hand done blind hem.

  • Bias facings as armholes and the neckline with a hand done blind finish. You can see the tiny prick stitches but It looks good. In retrospect, the bow ties should have been finished by hand. Next time!

For this blouse, I used the short sleeve version of this pattern, but plan to try them all. There are actually 3 versions (two different sleeves on the long sleeve version).

For the trousers, I used my favorite pant pattern from Wearing History. The fabric I used was a multi-colored micro hounds tooth plaid in different shades of brown. I believe it’s wool and very soft. It came out bigger in the waist than the previous pair I made, and is slightly more clingy of a fabric. I might go ahead and take the waist in so it’s a little more comfortable. Alterations are not my favorite! Especially after I’ve already sewn them up. You can read my review for the pattern here:

Smooth Sailing Sports Togs- A Pattern Review

I have several more pieces to make and I’m planning to construct at least 1 jacket this Fall, in addition to two skirts and two blouses.

Here is the breakdown of my entire outfit:

A big thanks to the O’Brien family for letting us use their front yard. Until next time, Happy Sewing!

XO Jennifer